YONGSAN, KOREAWhen I thought yuk gae jang (spicy beef soup) and kal kook soo (handmade knife cut noodles) couldn't get any better, this little restaurant combined the two. The result is so awesome that that's all they serve. You hunker down at a table, seat still warm from the previous customer and in seconds, bowls of steaming hot soup and noodles appear. You feast to a concerto of slurping and sniffling noses from the intense heat of the yuk gae jang. Your mouth will hurt, your insides will burn, you'll complain about the pain, you'll sweat profusely but you won't stop til every noodle is gone. Clutching your belly you'll stumble out into the cold, insides on fire and writhing on pain, yet with the happiest, most content stupefied grin plastered on your face.